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Car in the spring – Car care and maintenance

Car in the spring - Car care and maintenance 1
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Car in spring

Do you think your car rusts the most in winter? You are mistaken. Peak corrosion occurs in spring. In winter, with a salt and slush, with a sandpaper, ice and frozen snow peeling off the ‘belly’, a time bomb is laid under the car. Aggressive environment is evident, but even the d-lee remembers from the school course that at low temperatures chemical processes slow down. Warmed up – car scratches clogged with salt and mud will bloom in red.

Therefore, the first spring procedure of the car is water. The car body must be thoroughly washed, not only from the top and bottom, but also from the inside (in the engine compartment, trunk and passenger compartment). If there is a suspicion that water has picked up under the carpets during the winter, you need to pull them out..
It is important not only to remove the dirt, wash off the salt, but also how to dry the car. In the absence of special equipment, this cannot be done at a time. After washing, you will have to take a break for a day or two and walk.

As you dry, it is worth calculating the losses incurred during the winter. All chips, cracks and scratches of the paintwork and protective coatings of the car would be nice to process and repair in one way or another. Automotive chemicals for the ‘sparing’ minor car body repair today are in excess. If professionals are reluctant to paint over individual scratches – unprofitable, then they will undertake to renew the ‘anti-corrosion’. Their help has a direct meaning: it will turn out not too expensive and better. Of course, if the workshop has the appropriate equipment and quality materials, and the hands of the craftsmen grow from the right place.

It will not damage the car body by applying polish: it will protect the paint and the eye will be pleased. After assessing the condition of the enamel, decide which composition to use. In the presence of shallow scratches, turbidity and stubborn dust, you can first walk ‘on the sides’ with a reducing agent for old paint (previously it was called a polish for weathered coatings). He doesn’t, however, restore the paint, but its luster. Such products, as a rule, are removed with a thin layer, as a rule..

Refreshed a car? Protect the result of your work with a special compound – silicone, based on Teflon or carnauba wax. The choice of funds depends on your hard work and financial capabilities.
Carefully process, ‘seal’ the paintwork can also help specialists. Do you think this is the end of the saga? Not at all.

We remove the wheels and wash them thoroughly, especially from the inside of the rim. If you used to drive on summer tires all winter or those that we somehow call all-weather, do not skimp on balancing checks. The weights happen to fly off in the winter from the wheels along with ice frozen on them. Spring asphalt – the coating is less slippery than winter. Therefore, the imbalance of the wheel appears on the tread rather quickly. The aforesaid can equally be attributed to the installation angles of the front (and, on some cars, rear) wheels. Dry asphalt is ruthless like a file.

The peak of the spring rubber season is traditionally in late March – early April. Almost always, by this time the snow is finally melting, and the positive temperature confidently holds not only during the day, but also at night. Riding on winter tires in such conditions loses its meaning. Firstly, it is uneconomical, because on the asphalt the attrition of the studs and the rubber itself, which softens very much at a plus temperature, is much faster. In addition, a car equipped with winter tires consumes significantly more fuel than shod in summer tires.
Secondly, it is unsafe: the adhesion of studded tires with asphalt is not the highest, in addition, there are a lot of pits and potholes on spring roads, getting into which ends for soft winter tires is very sad: at best, a bump on the sidewall, at worst – a gust which, in turn, can lead to a terrible accident.
And finally, it’s uncomfortable: winter tires are much more noisy than summer tires.

So, each wheel assembly must be thoroughly washed and checked for tread depth and damage. By modern standards, a depth of 4 mm is the limit after which a winter tire will cease to be such and can be ‘finished off’ in the summer. Finally it will wear out quickly – the composition of the rubber and the pattern are not the same. Spikes, if any, will impair tire performance on asphalt.

Tires with non-cutting cuts would be nice to show to an experienced tire technician: maybe you will have to pay a patch for fidelity, and in garage conditions such an operation is problematic. We bend or bend steel bent rims. Repairing alloy wheels (cast and forged) is not recommended. We clean, primer and paint over chipped paint and peeling paint – in the late autumn it will be difficult to do this because of cold weather, and even once. The latter also applies to balancing. Wheel storage is an important issue. The worst solution is in piles. It is better to hang it by the rim vertically on the wall of the garage. Ideal – use a special rack on which the wheels are suspended by the rim horizontally with a gap between each other. To put wheels vertically is unacceptable. You can also not suspend tires and stack them, or put other objects on them.

One more remark concerns, first of all, studded tires. Be sure to mark on the sidewall with chalk, marker or paint the place of the ‘dislocation’ of the wheel – for example, ‘front right’. This will not only help to correctly rearrange the wheels according to the scheme recommended by the factory instruction, but also, more importantly, protect the spikes. During operation, the spike is run-in in rubber. It is necessary to change the direction of rotation of the wheel (reverse – not counting), and the spike begins to work on a break, breaking out of the tread. If marking has not been made, to some extent, the situation can be corrected only by re-running the tire, having driven the first 500-1000 km in a gentle mode: at low speed without sharp turns, acceleration and braking. At the same time, the likelihood of a spike loss will still increase, and the efficiency will drop.

A certain attention in the spring requires a battery. In winter, he had a hard time: a hard start, a big load from the headlights and the stove … If the battery is unattended, it is enough to recharge it. In older designs, it may be necessary to check the electrolyte level and top up with distilled water. Neglecting these simple procedures is not worth it. In warm time, the engine can easily start from a battery that is discharged by 75%, but the current source in this state lives much less.

Changing the oil and oil filters of a car

There is no consensus on whether it is worth changing oil and filters with the beginning of spring. Most likely, for gasoline engines it is a vestigial preserved from the time of seasonal (summer and winter) oils. ‘All-season’ (multi-grade) can be changed by mileage. But for a diesel engine, as a dirtier one, such a replacement will not hurt, as some automakers even mention in the manuals. It makes sense to pour some alcohol-containing additive into the fuel tank. It is not harmful to clean the system, but the main thing is to remove water from the tank. Condensate accumulates in it abundantly during the winter. Water does not mix with gasoline or diesel fuel, and an alcohol solution is easy. Therefore, instead of the dreary dismantling and washing, you can do with the ‘distillation’ of water through the combustion chamber during movement. For the engine it is absolutely harmless, but, according to some experts, it’s also useful – the combustion chamber is cleaned of carbon deposits. All of the above information was primarily related to active motorists who do not fall into hibernation.

If the car has not been used in winter.

‘Snowdrops’ can start with a battery. Their spring problems are for the most part not technical, but psychological in nature. Re-preservation of the car, if preservation was carried out, is quite simple and entirely depends on the imagination and skills of the ‘conservative’. And the fact that a car driven by a person who has not been driving for six months poses a threat to other traffic participants is an indisputable fact. The ability to adequately respond to unusual situations is fully restored in two weeks. Therefore, the most reasonable for the “snowdrops” – the first time to ride as much as possible, but avoiding places with heavy traffic. If fate drove you onto a busy highway, stick to your position as much as possible, and remember: the safest speed is the flow rate. “Detachment from the collective” is equally dangerous, even in that direction, though in the other direction. And those with whom I lived this winter together, I urge you to show courage and mercy. The mass appearance of ‘snowdrops’ is an inevitable spring evil, itself disappearing closer to summer.

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