Cadillac ESCALADE. Starter does not twist.

The story began with the fact that our client turned off the car, went to the store, returned, the key to the start – and the engine does not start. What to do? How good it would be if you could call and the masters would come to you and fix the car! Demand creates supply – there are such services in search engines in our city. Our client was tempted by this, and masters came to him with a scanner.

When trying to start the engine, all devices behaved as expected, with the exception of a non-extinguished lamp of a regular immobilizer (a machine with a lock and key). We connected the scanner, but there were no errors in the memory of the engine control unit – this is an ambush where to dig, a dead end!

The comrades did not despair, they began to try to turn on the starter directly, having bridged the relay contacts, to supply voltages where they should not. As expected, there was no launch. And, in the end, their conclusion – “you have a problem in the immobilizer, perhaps the key has flown, erased from memory or something like that.” I wonder if the lamp didn’t burn, what would they say then? Diagnostics on departure costs from 500 rubles.

And here already not going anywhere – I had to call a tow truck. So the car was with us.

American cars in electrical issues cars are slightly different from the Japanese and European. The ignition lock has both 12 volt and 5 volt circuits, and already on its signal the on-board electronics unit (BCM) feeds the entire car through high-current relays.

But do not think that you know everything and you will never have such a situation, do not poke anywhere at random: you just have to open and open a catalog on this machine, open charts, examine the question, verification methods. The catalogs are in English, and this should not be a problem in diagnostics, as well as the language in the scanner menu so that there are no different interpretations, also in translation.

Yes, it took an hour and a half to study in front of the computer, but there were clues, a chain of actions was laid out, checks that should be carried out to find the cause.

And everything led us to the harness of the engine compartment, and there we were waited for by a frayed, rotten wire.

We coped with one problem. But as it turned out, it was not the end – the starter did not want to turn anyway. I will not hesitate: the problem was in the fuse box under the hood, where the starter relay is and where there were attempts to start the cars with on-site diagnostics.

Inside the unit is a multilayer board that cannot be repaired, and the relay control lanes are burnt and closed.

 

The result – a short circuit in the fuse box. And good luck that the engine control unit did not fail, because it is it who supplies power to the relay at the moment of turning the key according to permission from the BCM.

Please note: “Not like other cars.” Which was the fatal mistake that the life fuse block was standing for. Due to its high cost of living, we had to change the starter switching circuit.

This record would not have appeared if it were not for the frequent stories and complaints of our clients about on-site diagnostics and wasted money in 90% of cases. For example, another case: the Opel Zafira owner with a robotic gearbox twice called out on-site diagnostics, they made adaptations, read and erased mistakes, but the car still jerked when shifting gears. And just had to change (and do not forget to do it regularly) clutch release fluid. Do not do it this way).

People need to understand that the car is not a kettle, it cannot be repaired on the knee, and the scanner is not a diagnostics. Diagnostics – a complex of checks that allows you to accurately find the problem, it does not last 5-10 minutes.

Regards,

Carscanners team

How to repair BMW CAS module (immo box) after unseccesful programming – small note

Ok guys – you tried program keys to BMW or tried reprogram cas firmware and was something wrong… Now car is died, you can’t find CAS by diagnostic and another problems.
Don’t worry! You not need buy new CAS module… All easy!

It depends on how unsuccessful was the programming. If the flash was
erased and new firmware was not completely programmed then you have to
repeat the programming – you can’t just manually change a few bytes.

I suppose you are asking for the case where the CAS enters bootloader
but fails to erase its flash. Nothing is modified but due to defective
bootloader it can’t be programmed nor returned back to normal. In such
case the address in the dump is 0xF90 -> 3 bytes. Change to BF 00 00 for
normal mode. When it is in bootloader it will be something like 00 AA 55
(I don’t remember the exact pattern – but if you real master – you’ll find).

How to repair GM (Opel) ecu Y17DT with error 0251

90% of failures in the operation of this engine, installed on cars of OPEL, Astra G brands, are related to the failure of this unit and the appearance of error 0251. Very often, error 0251 is not recorded in the memory of the main engine control unit. Also, often, after a short cooling of the engine, it starts again and works without any complaints. Now, many have “learned”, allegedly, to repair these blocks, simply by opening the lid and soldering cold rations on the power elements on the board. As a rule, such a “repair” helps for a short time and soon the unit fails much more seriously. Yes, sometimes this repair helps, but not always. I repair the block myself only with complete disassembly of the block for many reasons.

Here is the soldered contact from the inside.

The main cause of failures is the drying or non-contacting of the leads of an electrolytic capacitor (1500 microfarad, 35 volts). As a result, there is a shortage of power at the peak of the pulse, overheating and failure of the transistors of the converter occur. I didn’t find dried capacitors during the test, so I don’t change them


The second reason for failures is the failure of the stabilizer (9 volts, type 7809 (KREN8A) 1.5 Amperes). This stabilizer is the source of the bias of the field-effect transistors of the converter and the modulator (MOSFET). Instead of the minimum allowable voltage in this circuit, equal to 8.6 volts, there remain 7-8 volts, which leads to incomplete opening of the transistors, displacement from the operating point, their overheating, appearance of some signal harmonics, etc. Also, if there is 8.6 volts at the output, this still does not mean anything – the stabilizer may not hold the load. As a result, the block first overheats and “goes into the spacing”, and after the spacing, both the transistors and the rectifier diode, the elements of the operating system (the first is a powerful SMD resistor 0.02 Ohm) and stabilization often fail. The burning of the findings of the high-voltage choke is caused by these reasons. The circuit provides protection against the failure of the 9-volt stabilizer, but in most cases it is not effective. The protection is implemented as follows – from the 9 volt source there is also power supply to the 5 volt stabilizer – 78M05, which serves to power the comparators of the converter and the logic circuits of the modulator. The idea of the developers was as follows: when the reference voltage of 9 volts disappears, 5 volts also disappears and the unit simply does not turn on, the transistors do not heat up and the motor simply does not work. But for powering 78M05, 6 volts is enough, and even less – 5.5!

No matter how many blocks were disassembled, almost all were with defective stabilizers. The stabilizer must stabilize the voltage without load and with load.

Check the repaired unit without load and see the following:

Now I connect a small load in the form of two coolers

And here’s another

Change to new

This is a new one.

When dismantling, pay attention to the winding contacts of the choke, to which the winding pins are soldered. Overheating may cause no contact – cold soldering. Both of these contacts must be soldered, no matter how beautiful they look!

Add a safety jumper

Clean the burning holes with a toothbrush and solvent

Remove unnecessary pins

Build the system and check it

Perhaps this information will be useful.

Cheers,

Carscanners team

How to: Program keys to Harley Davidson if all keys LOST and PIN unknown

Customer lost keys from his Harley and don’t know PIN – this is not the problem!

It’s very easy with our tools.

In first you need read PIN-code from Harley Davidson ECU.

You need Simplediag interface.

And license for read PIN-code.

When PIN will found use these algorithms for learn new keys:

TSSM equipped bikes

To reset the code with a TSSM equipped bike (with button fob), you should:
1) Set your kill switch to off
2) Quickly turn the ignition switch on, off, on, off, on
3) Immediately press and let go of the left turn signal switch twice (press, let go, press, let go)
4) Press and let go of your fob button twice (press fairly hard)
5) Current PIN number will be displayed on odometer
6) Change the PIN by pressing the left signal until the desired number is reached
7) Press the fob button twice to cycle to the next number and repeat step 7
8) Press and let go the right signal and turn ignition off when 5 digit PIN is satisfactory
NOTE: Steps 2 through 4 must be completed in quick succession of each other.

Now you can have the bike armed, and disarm with the PIN (example PIN will be 25522 in the following steps):
1) Ignition switch to Accessories
2) Immediately press both turn signals at the same time (red key light on your speedometer will flash rapidly if done right)
3) Press and let go the left signal 2 times
4) Press and let go the right signal once
5) Press and let go the left signal 5 times
6) Press and let go the right signal once
7) Repeat for each of the last three numbers of the PIN (left 5 times, right once, left 2 times, right once, left 2 times, right once)
8) Red key on speedo will stop blinking if done right (security has been disarmed)
NOTE: Steps 2 through 7 must be completed in quick succession of each other.

HFSM equipped bikes
1) Have your key fob near the bike
2) Set your kill switch to off
3) Quickly turn the ignition switch on, off, on, off, on
4) Immediately press and let go of the left turn signal switch twice(press, let go, press, let go)
5) Press and let go the right signal once
6) Current PIN number will be displayed on odometer
7) Change the PIN by pressing the left signal until the desired number is reached
8) Press the right signal to cycle to the next number and repeat step 7
9) Turn ignition off when 5 digit PIN is satisfactory
NOTE: Steps 3 through 5 must be completed in quick succession of each other.

Now you can have the bike armed, and disarm with the PIN (example PIN will be 25522 in the following steps):
1) Ignition switch to on
2) Immediately press both turn signals at the same time(red key light on you speedometer will flash rapidly if done right)
3) Press and let go the left signal 2 times
4) Press and let go the right signal once
5) Press and let go the left signal 5 times
6) Press and let go the right signal once
7) Repeat for each of the last three numbers of the PIN(left 5 times, right once, left 2 times, right once, left 2 times, right once)
8) Red key on speedo will stop blinking if done right(security has been disarmed)
NOTE: Steps 2 through 7 must be completed in quick succession of each other.

All about Harley Davidson Security System

Most modern serially produced Harley-Davidson motorcycles in their basic configuration are equipped with the Smart Security System security system, part of which is a remote key fob that provides remote engine start. And although this system has been around for many years, many still do not know about all the features of the Smart Security module.

The situation has already become familiar: the owner of Harley-Davidson is coming up to his motorcycle, who has been standing alone on the street for a long time, and without inserting the key into the ignition lock (because there is simply no one there …), starts the engine from the button on the right handlebar and quietly leaves on business. This simplified algorithm for starting the engine was made possible thanks to the Smart Security System.

The Harley-Davidson security system is simple and without much sophistication – about the same as in most vehicles with remote access. The main parts of the Smart Security System are a control module mounted on a motorcycle in an inaccessible place (so that attackers could not just pick it out), the antenna (receiving signals at a certain frequency), and the key fob (synchronized with the antenna in frequency and powered by replaceable battery). It is worth noting that the frequency of each pair of “module – key chain” is strictly individual, and therefore the label from one Harley-Davidson does not fit the other.

The convenience of the Smart Security System is that everything happens automatically: when the owner of the motorcycle approaches its Harley to the distance of the antenna (limited to several meters), there is a recognition of the “owner — someone else” – and the control module deactivates the protection. Now it is possible to start the engine and, if necessary, to roll a motorcycle with a muffled motor in the parking lot. If the tag has not passed the identification (or the key fob is simply not nearby), the control unit will not only prevent the engine from starting, but will continue to monitor the unchanged position of the motorcycle in space. Therefore, even when trying to raise such a Harley-Davidson in “readiness” from the side step, the system will first unequivocally warn with a loud beep and light signaling … and in case of repeated anxiety, it will be filled with a loud cry – very, it must be said, shrill and energetic … After the trip and when the tag leaves the communication zone with the Smart Security System module, protection will be automatically enabled.

And now, after a brief digest of the basics, the most interesting is, so to speak, a small Q & A. So:

Q: Is it possible to install the Smart Security System on a Harley-Davidson motorcycle not equipped with this blessed technology?? 
A: Yes you can. Smart Security System is available as an accessory and is freely sold, for example, in the US online store Harley-Davidson. Installation is simple; however, it is better to entrust the programming of the security system to people who have experience in such work.

Q: How to drive away a Harley-Davidson of fellow into the garage, who drank a couple of beer mugs, if the motorcycle owner himself decided to stay at the bar to continue the party, but forgot to give you a key-ring?
A: Just sit down and ride to your destination! After starting the engine, the motorcycle is at your complete disposal – you can go anywhere … But only as long as the ignition button is in the ON position and the engine is running. It is necessary to muffle the engine – for example, at a gas station – and without a keychain, “Harley” will not start … Or is it possible?

Q: What should I do if the Harley-Davidson key is lost / drowned / burned / exploded – or if the battery just runs out of power?
A: If the key fob is lost or damaged, you can always order a new one – and program it from the dealer to the frequency of your motorcycle’s Smart Security System module. In the case when the battery is “dead”, it is reasonable to simply replace it. But if you don’t have a new battery or a spare keychain on hand, but you need to go, there is a way to remove Smart Security protection at Harley itself.

Q: Can I deactivate Smart Security System without a key tag?
A:
Not everyone is up to date, but any modern Harley-Davidson motorcycle equipped with a Smart Security System can be started and used without any keys, key fobs or other “black marks” at all! To do this, you need to know the five-digit PIN-code for a specific device – and the owner of the motorcycle, of course, can program the access code to your taste.

Q: How to disable the Harley-Davidson motorcycle security system using a PIN code.
A:
To do this, turn the ignition to the ON position – and immediately hold down both the turn signal buttons (located on the right and left handlebars). After that, five empty windows will appear on the LCD display of the onboard computer, into which you will have to enter the digital security code. To enter the first digit, select the desired value using the left turn signal key, to go to the next code cell – press the right turn signal button. And so on, until the super-secret cipher is entered entirely. After displaying the entire code, you need to click on the “turn signal” button on the right-hand remote control last time – and Smart Security System is “disarmed”!

Q: How to change the factory PIN on the date of birth of your beloved grandmother?
A:
To enter the security code change menu, you need: 1) the key tag to be nearby and the Smart Security System module to accept it; 2) perform a simple algorithm of actions with the ignition on button: ON – OFF – ON – OFF – ON; 3) then press the left “turn signal” three times , and then – once the right. After that, the turn indicators blink several times, and the current PIN-code will be displayed in the LCD window, which will promptly flash, offering to change it to any five-digit number. Further actions do not differ from those described in the answer to the previous question: using the keys “turn signals”, you need to enter a new code. And in order to save the updated PIN in the memory of the Smart Security System, you must turn off the ignition after the procedure is completed and after the last pressing of the right “turn signal” button! Only after shutdown, the system will accept a new security code.