TOYOTA LAND CRUISER 200. Pseudo-tuning

In this article I will talk about one particular case of “pseudo-tuning,” although in reality there are much more such unpleasant and dangerous cases; as well as I will try to challenge the fabrications of fraudulent websites on the Internet, which car owners still continue to draw on the bait.

Car Toyota Land Cruiser 200. Wonderful car, big and reliable. The tow truck hardly climbed onto a small climb to our service station, the owner of the car stepped out and told him that he needed “to deal with the unpleasantness that happened recently: the gas pedal stopped responding to pressing.” Not a question, I conduct rapid diagnostics, which shows such error:

Recently, always pay attention to the DTC P2138, already had to deal with it. And therefore, I first perform the check as follows: I start the engine and press the gas pedal:

And you can not even look at the tachometer, the sound is clear: “The momentum is not gaining at all.” I just glanced at the tachometer:

(I apologize for the quality of the photo, you know that it is difficult to simultaneously diagnose and take photos).

As can be seen from the photo, the momentum did not even budge.

Next, a simple logical chain: the existing fault code + the lack of gas pedal response + previous experience = you need to look for some regular jetter:

Reclame (Jetter – same a lot of similar “Tuning box”, “Pedal booster” etc…):

“Jetter – accelerator throttle. Removes failure and slowdown.

Does not interfere with the wiring and the “brains”

Does not harm the engine and gearbox

Factory warranty retained

with Jetter acceleration 30% faster

2 year warranty

Lowest price from 100 usd”

I don’t cite the link because I don’t want to advertise lies and deception. And to be sure: after some searching, I find this “miraculous box”:

It is installed between the accelerator pedal (gas pedal, if simple) and the on-board computer.

I remove it, connect everything in a regular way and again check the response of the gas pedal:

The photo shows a detached Jetter.

Motor is gaining momentum:

It seems everything is done, the fault is eliminated. After carrying out additional work, the car is given to the client, he is satisfied and, as I understand it, he will never again set himself such “speed improvers”.

And now, with your permission, I will discuss in absentia about sites on the Internet, which tells about the “wonderful box, which” eliminates the delay and lethargy in the work of your beautiful car. ”

“What is a Jetter. A Jetter is an electronic device to prevent the engine from opening the throttle valve with an electronic gas pedal.”

– Okay, let’s say that …
“On such vehicles, an electronic engine control unit opens the throttle with a lag. As a result, the start and acceleration of the car do not occur as quickly as expected from a modern car.”.
– Ahhhhhhh … you can’t cheat so arrogantly with words! Let’s go in order:

The electronic gas pedal was originally invented by Bosch in the late 90s of the last century and had the name E-GAS. The appearance of such an electronic pedal was dictated by time: for the electronically controlled injection engines that had already appeared, the use of a cable system for the gas pedal was impossible for several reasons, including for reasons of ecology. Look at the screen from the official manual:

Both sensors are potentiometers with contacts sliding along tracks whose holders are mounted on a common shaft. Any movement of the accelerator pedal is accompanied by a change in the resistance of the potentiometers and the corresponding voltages at the input of the engine control unit.

As is clear from the above screen, the gas pedal is directly connected to the potentiometers, and

– as soon as the driver presses the gas pedal, there is an instantaneous movement of the contacts

– the electrical signal immediately changes (instantly, it is natural!)

– the control unit receives the same instant information about the changed parameters

– the control unit performs an instant recalculation of the available parameters, increases the pulse duration at the injectors and changes (adjusts) other parameters of the engine to ensure that the speed set by the driver when you press the gas pedal at a certain angle.

So why on sites say that “Jetter … eliminates the delay in opening the throttle”? What kind of “delay” can we talk about? Is this a “lag” in reality?

Let’s give tribute to that unknown scammer who, in the best domestic traditions, like Mavrodi, could deftly manipulate with concepts!

What exactly he replaced the concept of “smooth opening of the gas pedal” was called a LATE!

This is the main basis of the claims of modern scammers who sell their “ingenious devices” to car owners.

The scammers have a statement: “Jetter converts the signals from the gas pedal position sensors in such a way as to provide a“ hard ”connection between the gas pedal position and the throttle valve position, excluding the delay of its closure. the car gives the driver’s requested dynamics. ” This statement is a lie and fiction, in order to deceive consumers and gain personal financial gain. In addition, this very “Jetter” is a very dangerous device that can trigger accidents and death. I wonder why the authorities have not yet banned the sale of “electronic devices that could provoke road accidents.”

In fact, the jetter’s principle of operation is based on the substitution of the true signal from the electronic gas pedal: when you press the gas pedal by, 15%, the jetter emulates such a signal so that the on-board computer can see 30%. You clicked on 30% – the computer “sees” 60%. And so on.

Remember: there is no “exception lag signal when applying the” Jetter “! There is a blatant falsification and direct deception of the consumer, that is, you and me.

Well, if you still decide to purchase a “magic box Jetter”, then always remember that this device is going to either “on the knee” or “in China and also on the knee”, despite the decent look of the final product. And it can fail you at the most unpredictable moment.

 

Best regards,

Carscanners

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Cadillac ESCALADE. Starter does not twist.

The story began with the fact that our client turned off the car, went to the store, returned, the key to the start – and the engine does not start. What to do? How good it would be if you could call and the masters would come to you and fix the car! Demand creates supply – there are such services in search engines in our city. Our client was tempted by this, and masters came to him with a scanner.

When trying to start the engine, all devices behaved as expected, with the exception of a non-extinguished lamp of a regular immobilizer (a machine with a lock and key). We connected the scanner, but there were no errors in the memory of the engine control unit – this is an ambush where to dig, a dead end!

The comrades did not despair, they began to try to turn on the starter directly, having bridged the relay contacts, to supply voltages where they should not. As expected, there was no launch. And, in the end, their conclusion – “you have a problem in the immobilizer, perhaps the key has flown, erased from memory or something like that.” I wonder if the lamp didn’t burn, what would they say then? Diagnostics on departure costs from 500 rubles.

And here already not going anywhere – I had to call a tow truck. So the car was with us.

American cars in electrical issues cars are slightly different from the Japanese and European. The ignition lock has both 12 volt and 5 volt circuits, and already on its signal the on-board electronics unit (BCM) feeds the entire car through high-current relays.

But do not think that you know everything and you will never have such a situation, do not poke anywhere at random: you just have to open and open a catalog on this machine, open charts, examine the question, verification methods. The catalogs are in English, and this should not be a problem in diagnostics, as well as the language in the scanner menu so that there are no different interpretations, also in translation.

Yes, it took an hour and a half to study in front of the computer, but there were clues, a chain of actions was laid out, checks that should be carried out to find the cause.

And everything led us to the harness of the engine compartment, and there we were waited for by a frayed, rotten wire.

We coped with one problem. But as it turned out, it was not the end – the starter did not want to turn anyway. I will not hesitate: the problem was in the fuse box under the hood, where the starter relay is and where there were attempts to start the cars with on-site diagnostics.

Inside the unit is a multilayer board that cannot be repaired, and the relay control lanes are burnt and closed.

 

The result – a short circuit in the fuse box. And good luck that the engine control unit did not fail, because it is it who supplies power to the relay at the moment of turning the key according to permission from the BCM.

Please note: “Not like other cars.” Which was the fatal mistake that the life fuse block was standing for. Due to its high cost of living, we had to change the starter switching circuit.

This record would not have appeared if it were not for the frequent stories and complaints of our clients about on-site diagnostics and wasted money in 90% of cases. For example, another case: the Opel Zafira owner with a robotic gearbox twice called out on-site diagnostics, they made adaptations, read and erased mistakes, but the car still jerked when shifting gears. And just had to change (and do not forget to do it regularly) clutch release fluid. Do not do it this way).

People need to understand that the car is not a kettle, it cannot be repaired on the knee, and the scanner is not a diagnostics. Diagnostics – a complex of checks that allows you to accurately find the problem, it does not last 5-10 minutes.

Regards,

Carscanners team

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How to repair BMW CAS module (immo box) after unseccesful programming – small note

Ok guys – you tried program keys to BMW or tried reprogram cas firmware and was something wrong… Now car is died, you can’t find CAS by diagnostic and another problems.
Don’t worry! You not need buy new CAS module… All easy!

It depends on how unsuccessful was the programming. If the flash was
erased and new firmware was not completely programmed then you have to
repeat the programming – you can’t just manually change a few bytes.

I suppose you are asking for the case where the CAS enters bootloader
but fails to erase its flash. Nothing is modified but due to defective
bootloader it can’t be programmed nor returned back to normal. In such
case the address in the dump is 0xF90 -> 3 bytes. Change to BF 00 00 for
normal mode. When it is in bootloader it will be something like 00 AA 55
(I don’t remember the exact pattern – but if you real master – you’ll find).

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How to repair GM (Opel) ecu Y17DT with error 0251

90% of failures in the operation of this engine, installed on cars of OPEL, Astra G brands, are related to the failure of this unit and the appearance of error 0251. Very often, error 0251 is not recorded in the memory of the main engine control unit. Also, often, after a short cooling of the engine, it starts again and works without any complaints. Now, many have “learned”, allegedly, to repair these blocks, simply by opening the lid and soldering cold rations on the power elements on the board. As a rule, such a “repair” helps for a short time and soon the unit fails much more seriously. Yes, sometimes this repair helps, but not always. I repair the block myself only with complete disassembly of the block for many reasons.

Here is the soldered contact from the inside.

The main cause of failures is the drying or non-contacting of the leads of an electrolytic capacitor (1500 microfarad, 35 volts). As a result, there is a shortage of power at the peak of the pulse, overheating and failure of the transistors of the converter occur. I didn’t find dried capacitors during the test, so I don’t change them


The second reason for failures is the failure of the stabilizer (9 volts, type 7809 (KREN8A) 1.5 Amperes). This stabilizer is the source of the bias of the field-effect transistors of the converter and the modulator (MOSFET). Instead of the minimum allowable voltage in this circuit, equal to 8.6 volts, there remain 7-8 volts, which leads to incomplete opening of the transistors, displacement from the operating point, their overheating, appearance of some signal harmonics, etc. Also, if there is 8.6 volts at the output, this still does not mean anything – the stabilizer may not hold the load. As a result, the block first overheats and “goes into the spacing”, and after the spacing, both the transistors and the rectifier diode, the elements of the operating system (the first is a powerful SMD resistor 0.02 Ohm) and stabilization often fail. The burning of the findings of the high-voltage choke is caused by these reasons. The circuit provides protection against the failure of the 9-volt stabilizer, but in most cases it is not effective. The protection is implemented as follows – from the 9 volt source there is also power supply to the 5 volt stabilizer – 78M05, which serves to power the comparators of the converter and the logic circuits of the modulator. The idea of the developers was as follows: when the reference voltage of 9 volts disappears, 5 volts also disappears and the unit simply does not turn on, the transistors do not heat up and the motor simply does not work. But for powering 78M05, 6 volts is enough, and even less – 5.5!

No matter how many blocks were disassembled, almost all were with defective stabilizers. The stabilizer must stabilize the voltage without load and with load.

Check the repaired unit without load and see the following:

Now I connect a small load in the form of two coolers

And here’s another

Change to new

This is a new one.

When dismantling, pay attention to the winding contacts of the choke, to which the winding pins are soldered. Overheating may cause no contact – cold soldering. Both of these contacts must be soldered, no matter how beautiful they look!

Add a safety jumper

Clean the burning holes with a toothbrush and solvent

Remove unnecessary pins

Build the system and check it

Perhaps this information will be useful.

Cheers,

Carscanners team

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How to: Program keys to Harley Davidson if all keys LOST and PIN unknown

Customer lost keys from his Harley and don’t know PIN – this is not the problem!

It’s very easy with our tools.

In first you need read PIN-code from Harley Davidson ECU.

You need Simplediag interface.

And license for read PIN-code.

When PIN will found use these algorithms for learn new keys:

TSSM equipped bikes

To reset the code with a TSSM equipped bike (with button fob), you should:
1) Set your kill switch to off
2) Quickly turn the ignition switch on, off, on, off, on
3) Immediately press and let go of the left turn signal switch twice (press, let go, press, let go)
4) Press and let go of your fob button twice (press fairly hard)
5) Current PIN number will be displayed on odometer
6) Change the PIN by pressing the left signal until the desired number is reached
7) Press the fob button twice to cycle to the next number and repeat step 7
8) Press and let go the right signal and turn ignition off when 5 digit PIN is satisfactory
NOTE: Steps 2 through 4 must be completed in quick succession of each other.

Now you can have the bike armed, and disarm with the PIN (example PIN will be 25522 in the following steps):
1) Ignition switch to Accessories
2) Immediately press both turn signals at the same time (red key light on your speedometer will flash rapidly if done right)
3) Press and let go the left signal 2 times
4) Press and let go the right signal once
5) Press and let go the left signal 5 times
6) Press and let go the right signal once
7) Repeat for each of the last three numbers of the PIN (left 5 times, right once, left 2 times, right once, left 2 times, right once)
8) Red key on speedo will stop blinking if done right (security has been disarmed)
NOTE: Steps 2 through 7 must be completed in quick succession of each other.

HFSM equipped bikes
1) Have your key fob near the bike
2) Set your kill switch to off
3) Quickly turn the ignition switch on, off, on, off, on
4) Immediately press and let go of the left turn signal switch twice(press, let go, press, let go)
5) Press and let go the right signal once
6) Current PIN number will be displayed on odometer
7) Change the PIN by pressing the left signal until the desired number is reached
8) Press the right signal to cycle to the next number and repeat step 7
9) Turn ignition off when 5 digit PIN is satisfactory
NOTE: Steps 3 through 5 must be completed in quick succession of each other.

Now you can have the bike armed, and disarm with the PIN (example PIN will be 25522 in the following steps):
1) Ignition switch to on
2) Immediately press both turn signals at the same time(red key light on you speedometer will flash rapidly if done right)
3) Press and let go the left signal 2 times
4) Press and let go the right signal once
5) Press and let go the left signal 5 times
6) Press and let go the right signal once
7) Repeat for each of the last three numbers of the PIN(left 5 times, right once, left 2 times, right once, left 2 times, right once)
8) Red key on speedo will stop blinking if done right(security has been disarmed)
NOTE: Steps 2 through 7 must be completed in quick succession of each other.

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