Honda Accord EPS system
Honda Accord EPS system
- Errors in typical situations
- Trouble Code Conditions
- Motordat’s program: “Now good words about her are not advertising”
- I will dwell on EPS malfunctions in more detail
- How and what do “outbid” do with such malfunctions
The sacred thing is to go out in the afternoon before boxing, light a cigarette and sip a sip of hot coffee. Look lazy and relaxed … Where did this Honda come from? Driving a girl. Steers between cars slowly, floats like a steamer looking for a pier … steers, chooses a place to become. “Well, what do you use your hands on the steering wheel as you milk a cow … You turn your head on the sides, you might think she’s choosing a place. Now, probably right in front of the boxing gate, he’ll become jammed with all the movement, then he’ll bind his typewriter like a goat in a clearing, the signaling will be poked and he will go looking for: “with whom can I talk …”
These thoughts are a good example of how you can make mistakes on typical situations. That’s how I am now. In such a situation, the probability of an error is “50 to 50”.
What turned out:
1. Honda, though for a long time, but taxied and parked in a free niche
2. The girl did not pick up the signaling and did not go looking for someone, but immediately approached me
3. And “small and frequent steering”, this is not due to weakness of the hands, but on the machine the EPS system refused
So, Honda Accord. EPS defective. Watched in several places. The diagnoses were different, but the conclusions were the same: “change the rail.” There are two options: new or contract assembly. The price of work is about the same. The girl voiced her “sentences” from her notebook and showed a timid doubt that … she does not understand the terminology very much, but she feels that the reasons indicated are different. And since several experts have different opinions … – I was told that you can repair it … “” Ta-ak … I see. I can, not a question. I can do a lot of things. Only while it is not clear what to push from. ” – We need to inspect the car. And I can do this no earlier than in an hour. Leave the car, phone number, and that’s what they decided. When freed, took up a tight Honda.
What you need to know and understand here:
. there is such a motor program MotorData http://motordata.ru/ru. Earlier I heard that this is a “cool thing.” I tried it – they didn’t lie. The interpretation of the codes is right-handed and correct even in Russian, it’s useful for me in this region, I am friends with English, but not perfect)) But I recommend these programs to everyone. Right at the workplace you get access to reliable and current information.
The main thing: do not grab the first code that catches your eye and the version of its interpretation by the scanner (especially when the scanner gives them several) and rush to disassemble, shoot, twist … and then think about how to put everything back in place. Since these issues have been considered more than once, and are available in the archives of articles on the forum, I will not dwell on them. I can only say one thing: that “rake is dead” – I had doubts. But in the fact that “vital organs were not hurt,” faith strengthened. It remains to check the EPS system.
Checked. OK. I recall the words of the client and try to restore the course of events … In that car service where she was, they found “lack of power on the motor.” And they showed it to the hostess, apparently in order to convince themselves. Therefore, the girl described the procedure for that action in great detail, I had to check it too, and when I saw the connection point of the device, it “took off”)))
… hell they would have waited there for food until the second advent.
Thus, a chance appeared. I plan to try to restore the functionality of the node (because everything else in the system is working properly) without removing the rail from the machine and without disassembling it. Thus, to avoid all operations that will be necessary to perform during assembly and installation. First, a little history.
I always tried to try to understand what another master was doing with the car and why he did it. When I come across cars that are being prepared for sale in order to hide existing defects, it becomes even more interesting. Especially when a lot of information is gathered and can be systematized. In most cases, the work done has nothing to do with repair and restoration..
“Repair” issues are boldly and brazenly resolved, but most importantly, with minimal expenses. But still there is something that attracts attention. It’s difficult to call this an idea, rather a line of thought and action that allows you to hide the problem for a while. And if you modify and do fine? So, you need to understand the cause of the malfunction (find a weak spot), understand why these methods give effect and try. In the vast majority of cases, the primary cause of failure of the electric power steering is not the failure of the control unit, sensor or motor. It all starts much more prosaic.
This is the root cause. No, and the motors burn, and the blocks and sensors fail. But to be honest, I can’t recall this, usually, I saw the listed faults when someone had already visited me before. That’s how it is now on this machine. But can you really call a “puncture with a needle” for quick access what I have in front of my eyes … here the boot awl is resting. And some for quick checks even manage to strip the knife with insulation. And then a poor-quality insulating tape is wound in this place, which does not hold moisture and does not protect against temperature changes.
I saw a lot of cars after resellers, I saw a lot of faults after that, and I will focus on EPS faults in more detail. The method they use is impudent, but quick and guaranteeing an instant effect (a car on a lift, anther bumped from a wide side. A couple of cylinders of vedeha will be pulled through the drain. They will rotate the steering wheel. The excess vedeha will fly out of the atomizer through the drain. Part will remain in the rail. Then heat and frost will continue. do their job. The mud dissolves and the mechanism works for some time in this slush). Well, how long will the rake survive after this … the question is open. I’ll try to explain how to do everything reliably with the same amount of time. We have a car with a right-hand drive. The mechanism that we need is shifted to the left by the rail: it is perfectly visible if you remove the wheel and hang the car on a lift.
- We remove steering draft
- We turn the steering wheel to the right to failure. The rail on your part will go almost to the edge of the case
- The old grease must be cleaned from the rail sleeve.
- Then the partner by the right wheel should push the rail to the “left to failure” position. In order for his efforts not to be wasted, you, without saving “a lot of money”, abundantly moisten the output of the sleeve and the rail itself that goes to your side. Immediately your partner will not be able to transfer the rail to the desired position. Even if he is not a “frail guy”, most likely the first run will be discrete
- Next, the rail must be returned back to the right position. Why not driving? Yes, it is desirable that the movement be more or less uniform. Now I will try to explain: There is a drainage hole in the steering rack bush. It is necessary, because when you turn the steering wheel and move the mechanism inside the body, air pressure is created. So that the air was where to go, these holes were made. But such ventilation plays a cruel joke. If on the tie rod in time you do not change the anthers that have lost elasticity, then water will inevitably fall into them. Water accumulates in the corrugation and, having reached a certain amount, when you turn the steering wheel to the right, it is sucked in. And since the water on the roads that we drive contains the entire periodic table, then the kirdyk comes with grease, and then the mechanism. The drain hole on the sleeve (if it was not removed) is exactly 12 hours. Therefore, we stock up on the needle when your partner starts to “turn right” behind the wheel, find and clean the drain hole. If it was not at the highest point, and behind the old grease, even if it is removed, it is difficult to see it, then you will hear the characteristic sound of intake air. That’s where it “sucks” – there it is. In the drainage hole, if you managed to push the tube from the canister, send out the entire balloon. If not, then a medical syringe. And while you are doing all this, your partner “steers right and left.” With every turn, it becomes easier for him to do it. A lot of dissolved rust and dirt appears on the rail mirror. It’s good. This means that the mechanism is “soaked”.
And you can proceed to the next stage.
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