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Koda Yeti – Inlet Problems

Koda Yeti - Inlet Problems 1
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Children’s diseases of the Skoda Yeti car (Skoda Yeti) with a 1.2 liter engine, turbo, TSI

This car has become a fairly frequent guest with us …

From the name of the car you can see and immediately attracts attention: “1.2 liter engine.” And without a “turbo” and TSI system, it would be quite difficult for this engine to drag such a body: in the photo, the height of work to eliminate an extreme malfunction during the service period in our car service.

Koda Yeti - Inlet Problems 2

– You first need to turn to the mechanics, a burning light in the ball – this is them.

The car was redirected to a locksmith’s post, where our experts after opening the oil pan identified a malfunction: “the oil receiver is clogged.” And it’s clogged not with some garbage, but with “something reminiscent of tar,” as Sergei Loki’s specialist said.

But the owner was surprised and said that he went through maintenance and passes regularly, as expected: once every fifteen thousand kilometers.

After the elimination of this malfunction, the engine was started, they gave it a little run and the engine began to come to life, the sound of its operation became much softer, the light on the instrument panel no longer illuminated. Locksmith fasting was just the beginning. Sergey saw that on the instrument panel the oil pressure lamp went out, but others lit up: “exchange rate stability” and “check the engine”. And again, the car moves to its original place, to the post of automobile diagnostics and repair, that is, to us.

For diagnostics, an original scanner is used, which shows this error:

There are three pressure sensors on this engine:

1 – pressure control in the intake manifold

2 – control of vacuum pressure on a vacuum amplifier (TSI motor, vacuum is not enough and there is a vacuum pump)

3 – turbine pressure control

This engine looks like this and upon careful examination you can easily identify these sensors:

Koda Yeti - Inlet Problems 3

From the practice of working with similar motors, I know that one of the reasons for the appearance of this error may be elementary contamination of the sensors. However, thorough cleaning did not help..

While the car was idling (it takes some time to drive out all the excess oil from the intercooler – it is built into the intake manifold and has liquid cooling) , continued to think and analyze the situation. Then he turned off the engine and began to search for information in more detail. All reference books, service manuals, manuals and other sources of technical information on the subject said that “it is necessary to check this, the other, measure the voltage there … check to see if there is any leakage” … however, everything was checked and found no deviations. I thought: “What else can affect this malfunction?”.

Finally I got to the throttle assembly, everything looked clean there, but for some reason I wanted to definitely look in there – I was just drawn to look. What was done.

Indeed, outwardly everything was clean and did not raise any suspicions:

But, despite the apparent purity – I did not believe this purity, was reinsured and the throttle was neatly cleaned (you can read how to clean it correctly both in the articles of Legion-Avtodata and on the Legion-Avtodata forum: autodata.ru/article/ , http://forum.autodata.ru/index.php ).

After that, with some impatience, he started the engine and adapted the throttle. What turned out: there were no errors on the motor after cleaning the throttle, and the pressure error disappeared after adaptation.

Warming up, the motor began to enter the operating mode. And here is what I thought: “The suspicions turned out to be justified: the turbine on this engine is interesting, it is like a pump for the crankcase ventilation system, the crankcase gas pipe has an outlet immediately before the turbine’s air intake … and in all probability, due to the installation of a non-original air filter or a certain degree of its pollution , the turbine sucks in an excessive amount of oil vapor into the intake manifold, and oil, burning, thereby coking the motor.

The air filter was replaced with an original one, and the client was advised to change it every ten thousand kilometers and do chemical flushing of the nozzles as a preventive measure against coking of the motor. After some time, the car was again with us for inspection, we looked at it and made sure that after our operations the throttle, intake manifold were clean, without any signs of oil pollution.

The problem with the motor and errors was resolved, but after some time this car was again at the gates of our box, but this time with other troubles for the client: the door open-close indication stopped working. And everything happened pretty tricky: if the driver’s door is opened to half – the indication shows this, and if the door is brought to full opening – everything, the indication shows that the door is closed. And at this moment, the indication on the back door also did not work.

The car of 2010, as they say about such – “advanced”, and most of the faults can be viewed using the original scanner. I looked. It turned out that when the doors were fully opened, there was no connection with the driver’s door control unit, just as there was no connection with the rear left door block. The scheme here is this: control is via the CAN bus, only power and CAN itself are suitable. There are few wires. Control units are in every door. I look further: when the door is closed, communication is restored. There was already experience of such work, so I immediately looked into the wiring harness going to the door, lifting up a rubber casing for this. And here it is. (in the photo below).

The work, at first glance, is simple, nothing complicated!

However, take a closer look at the photo – it was necessary to disassemble a lot to pull the injured tourniquet out of the door to a sufficient length for convenient operation and high-quality repair.

Koda Yeti - Inlet Problems 4

He removed the protective cover and determined the place of the malfunction: at the point of bend (break), the wires were broken. Everything is correct: when closing – opening the door, the contacts connected or disconnected, thereby the control unit detected an error, and the power wires were broken. It could not lead to anything good in the future, it’s good if it simply closes and fuses the fuse. And if the fuse is fake, the one “Chinese” that does not blow out, but “burns with a blue flame”? Here and not far from the fire.

So: found the cliff, what’s next? The place of wire breakage is located on the bend, which means that it is better to connect the wires at another point in order to get as far away from the bend point as possible.

We pull out the wires a little and begin to build them up. I want to pay attention: I only carry out such extensions and connections only with a silicone acoustic wire. I take the connection point as far as possible from the point of the previous connection so that there is no repetition. Why such a wire – “acoustic”. They are much nicer, soft and flexible, more reliable with good (minimum) resistance (oxygen-free copper is used in good wires).

Two words about why lately there are more and more calls to the car service for electrical connections. You just do not laugh, but my personal opinion is: “The Greens and their, sometimes, unreasonable demands on the environment are to blame for everything”. German cars and some others that use the same technology suffer brittle wires, but Japanese-made cars deal less with these problems. I think that according to the requirements of “green” ecologists, such technologies began to be applied, because of which electric automotive wires began to serve a shorter period. However, this is in the hands of manufacturers: the sooner the car stops working, the more people will buy new cars. “Environmental electrical wires – more fragile and less reliable wires”.

I always make all connections with soldering:

after this, I always pull on the pre-shrink shrink, heat it up to reliably shrink and prevent contact with the atmosphere:

Koda Yeti - Inlet Problems 5

I still couldn’t put the rubber casing on the outside of the door, I had to unscrew the window lifter and only after I pushed it a little inward, I was able to stick my hand in and push the casing from the inside.

In conclusion, I can say: this car is only three years old, and he has already begun such serious problems. It must be assumed that very soon similar automobiles with similar malfunctions will flow into car services.

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