Device for checking the body position sensor
This material is applicable for cars. Mitsubishi, Toyota and some others, where to adjust the xenon headlights body position sensor.
All invented and made by me “Devices to facilitate the conduct of automotive diagnostics”: part 1, part 2, part 3
These are the necessary personal gadgets, made in order to not only improve the quality of the performed auto-diagnostics, but also to simplify, speed up the process itself.
And here you do not have to invent anything, since life itself throws up plots of the performance of a device. So recently:
As usual – a call, the client is interested in replacing the body position sensor. I’m asking …
It turns out that in some car service he was sentenced to a complete replacement of this sensor. The man went, bought, brought. But when the master installed the position sensor instead of the “faulty” one, it turned out that the problem did not go away. And the client spent a considerable amount on the purchase of a new sensor, in the region of 20 thousand rubles.
The client drove the car, I started looking at it and was a little exhausted: it was very inconvenient and time consuming. As a result, it turned out that the reason was not in the sensor, but in the electrical connections.
And I must say that car owners deal with such problems quite often: one of the headlights does not change the position of the light beam, the other is annoying “it is not clear why the lamp is lit up on the dashboard” and so on.
I figured, thought, counted and decided that we need to make a new device that will help reduce the scan time + it will be high-quality and reliable.
By the way, when I was solving similar problems with the body position sensor, I often saw how much the wires near the sensor were “worn out and chipped” – it’s understandable, somewhere and once we checked, pierced with probes … but this is very bad, since it’s so inconspicuous for moisture, dirt, reagents from our Moscow roads will get into the puncture eyes over time, which will inevitably lead to a malfunction: in the puncture places it will either short-circuit, or the wire itself will fall off.
The housing design of this sensor, unfortunately, over time becomes leaky, and the same reagents and salt subsequently do their insidious business (see photo):
The principle of operation of the “body height sensor” (conditionally), is quite simple, but is included in the list of “safe driving devices”, that is, headlights, xenon headlights: when the car is loaded, this sensor, depending on the load (passengers or passengers passengers left the cabin), through the control unit, adjusts the angle of the xenon headlights. If this is not done, then, for example, after landing four passengers in the car, the car will sag, the headlight angle will change, and the driver will have a poor view of the road and road signs in the dark.
According to the manual, the position sensor is checked simply:
Drawing from the book of the company Legion-Avtodata.
The sensor assembly itself looks like this:
Photos from the Internet
But the whole difficulty of checking the operability of this sensor is that it has a small connector, and to get to it and check in such an uncomfortable place near the wheel, you have to dodge, be thin and sharp-sighted. Probably for this reason (it is inconvenient to work when checking and adjusting the sensor), the insulation of the wires is broken by thin punctures in almost all cars that came to me for diagnosis and repair on this problem.
The device itself for checking the body position sensor (and the whole system) is simple, consists of a plastic box, a potentiometer and a voltmeter.
Included in the gap between the standard sensor and the unit.
Principle of operation:
Knowing the set values, using the built-in voltmeter, you can easily determine many parameters, for example:
– serviceability of the standard sensor
– chain health
– the ability to reset the code from memory by setting the desired parameter (for example, “mid = 2.4 volts) – this checks the health of the entire system: if the error is deleted, then the” system is working “, if it is not deleted, then there is reason to conduct a thorough comprehensive check of the whole the system.
In the photo below: the parameter 2.4 volts corresponds to the “average” position (this is “almost”, since according to the manual the “average position” = 2.5 volts):
Increasing or decreasing the position of the body relative to the ground (raising and lowering the car), we get the answer: “The sensor is operational, shows the necessary parameters at a certain height”:
As a real check of the operability of the position sensor is carried out, pay attention to the voltmeter readings and the thrust position:
We change the position of the rod and see that the voltage is changing, pay attention to the voltmeter and the position of the rod:
And a guide to help if there are doubts about the adjustment.
I can say that in the past few years, customers come with similar problems on the body position sensor very often. And because of the high cost of one sensor (in the region of 20,000 rubles), car owners want to receive an accurate diagnosis after diagnosis.
And by the way: returning to the last case, when I told the client that the reason for the sensor malfunction is that “there is no power” (Mitsubishi Pajero owners can take note), the meaning of the malfunction was this: the wiring harness was incorrectly laid and frayed about the back of the headlamp. “Incorrectly laid” – this is again about the fact that few car owners and car service workers pay attention to the correct re-arrangement of the harness, which was removed from its mounts during some kind of repair. Usually like: “they did their work, somehow shifted the tourniquet into place, somewhere they didn’t fasten, somewhere they laid“ a bit to the left or right ”… looked and thought“ but … it will do! ”As a result, the client’s through the floor -year or year, a new malfunction is formed at a cost of 20 thousand rubles.!
What malfunctions are most often found on this system:
– short circuit in the sensor itself (above in the text are photos of sensors from Mitsubishi and Toyota cars, everything is clear there: Japanese quality always loses with Russian road reagents)
– break inside the sensor (influence of reagents or from time)
– mechanical failure (rotates and breaks silumin traction)
There are many options for solving “mechanical” problems on the Internet, since the car owner is not ready to lay out 20 thousand rubles for “only traction!”, Which is not sold separately, but only complete with a sensor. But that’s another story.
It happens that they put a “trick” in the form of a couple of resistances in the connector itself. Also another story, unreliable.
And the last thing is to the customers of car services: please remember that the cost of this entire system (sensor, harnesses, control unit) can reach up to 50-70 thousand, depending on the degree of decency of the car service where you come to be repaired. And so that you are not trite deceived and not “divorced”, go to be repaired at a proven auto repair shop, or better yet, have your own permanent “car doctor”. So many do.
Kudryavtsev Mikhail Evgenievich
© Legion Avtodata
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