I came to the diagnostics and repair car Opel Corsa C with an error on the throttle and gas pedal. I don’t remember the error number, something like a desynchronization of the gas pedal position sensors.
It turned out that +5 volts does not come from the computer to one of the resistors in the electronic gas pedal. The problem is in the control unit: they have an ECU attached to the engine, and due to vibration, the conductors that connect the board to the contacts break.
Hence a lot of hemorrhoids with idle and a throttle. The owner refused to open the computer, so they did it simply: they applied +5 volts to the resistor from another place, and the error disappeared.
So what kind of electronic choke is this and why is it needed – my version.
As already mentioned, almost everything that automakers do after the 2000s is done for the environment. The electronic gas pedal is no exception. The greatest atmospheric emissions are obtained by abruptly pressing the gas pedal. For the smallest emissions, the throttle must be opened very smoothly and just as smoothly closed.
Ever since the carburetors, the throttle was connected by a cable to the pedal, that is, the driver controlled the engine mechanics with his foot. With an electronic throttle, an electric motor was attached to the throttle, which is controlled by the engine ECU. It is worth noting that there are semi-automatic chokes. In them, the pedal is connected by a throttle, but there is an electric motor in the throttle that controls the throttle at idle. This is done, for example, on the Chevrolet Lacetti.
But back to the electronic choke.
The throttle is controlled by an ECU, and a “joystick” is left for the driver, which tells the ECU the intentions of the driver. In most cars, the electronic gas pedal is two variable resistors whose axis is connected to the pedal. Based on changes in the resistances of these resistors, the ECU understands what they want from the car.
Without an electronic gas pedal, compliance with the EURO-4 standards is impossible, therefore, on all modern cars there will be such a pedal. On VAZs, the electronic pedal began to be installed starting with Grants.
What problems does the electronic choke have??
The first is the delay. ECU takes some time to ponder. In modern cars, this is slightly better, because more efficient electronics are used. Also, the throttle does not sharply open, it opens smoothly. Therefore, those who have switched to an electronic throttle get the feeling that the car is dumb.
Secondly, in my opinion, less reliability. The fewer parts, the more reliable. Also on GAZ on the first electronic chokes there was a problem that resistive tracks were wiped very quickly on the pedal. On modern cars, this problem is much less common.
Thirdly, there are problems when servicing a car. This does not apply to all vehicles, but after disconnecting the connector from the throttle, the throttle must be adapted. The most common case is the Chevrolet Lacetti. After flushing the throttle, idle starts to float. After adapting the throttle from the scanner, everything passes. On the forums they write that the throttle should adapt itself after a few kilometers, but people came to me who have already traveled 200 km, and the throttle adapted only from the scanner.
And we can say that the electronic gas pedal is a reliable thing. But not always!
This pedal has a worthy adversary called the “human factor”.
The Smart 450 of 1999 of release with the turbocharged 0.7 liter engine came to us. A person complains that the car reacts very poorly to the gas pedal, after rebasing the speed hangs at around 1500-1800 rpm.
I carry out diagnostics and see that the car sincerely complains about the gas pedal, once the car owner tried to replace the gas pedal with a known working one, but it did not bring any result.
I start to inspect the car, swear at the Mercedes scanner, because it can not show me the voltage on any of the gas pedal position sensors. I decide to measure everything with a tester.
I turn off the gas pedal and come to an extreme degree of confusion: the wire from the gas pedal does not go where it should and looks “collective farm”.
I look and I am surprised: black electrical tape, rag electrical tape … And the wire in the native version should pass under the carpet. And here he is attached to the cable ties to the wiring under the dashboard. I take off the rag tape and see:
Under the electrical tape, of course, there were twists. Moreover, the twists under the electrical tape looked good, unlike the twists under the heat shrink. Under the shrink, the twists turned black and lost contact, because of which all these problems with the pedal started.
Well, take a soldering iron, heat shrink and remove excess wires. Unfortunately, I did not take intermediate photos, therefore the final version. Subsequently, this wire was laid where it should initially be.
Well, these are the extra parts that were removed from the car.
After the repair, all the unpleasant symptoms are gone, the car began to behave appropriately and predictably.
Why SO needed to be done is still a mystery to me. Maybe a person wanted to move the gas pedal somewhere under the armrest? The riddle has not been solved so far..
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