On most cars, including Renault Kengo, when the belt breaks, the camshaft stops in place with the valves open in a certain phase, and the crankshaft continues to spin by inertia and the piston reaches the open valve – the valve bends.
In order to avoid such troubles, there are clear scheduled timing for replacing the timing belt. For Renault Kangoo 2 1.5 diesel, the manufacturer recommends changing the timing belt and pulley every 60,000 km or every 4 years. Also, when replacing the timing, it is necessary to change the pump and the belt of additional equipment with rollers.
Which timing kit and additional parts to choose for Renault Kangoo II 1.5 dCi
When replacing the timing belt on a Kengo car, you will also need additional parts. The list of which are:
- Original number – Renault 77 01 473 120
- Analogs – Gates K015578XS, Contitech CT 1035 K1
- Original number – Renault 77 01 478 031
- Analogs – Renault 77 01 475 995, Ina 538 0047 10, Dolz R227, Magneti marelli 3523 16 170 998
- Original number – Renault 82 00 821 813
- Analogues – Renault 11 72 051 91R, Contitech 6PK1200, Dayco 6PK1200,
Idler roller accessories
- Original number – Renault 11 75 096 54R
- Analogues – Renault 11 75 010 83R, Gates T39009, Dayco APV3180
How to replace the timing belt yourself
Replacing the timing belt can be done independently and at home, but this requires certain skills. It should be possible to lower and raise the motor under the engine.
To install the tags of the gas distribution mechanism on Kengo 2, you can do without special stoppers and equipment. This car has marks on the belt and on the stars of the crankshaft, camshaft and injection pump. If the car worked well, then before removing the timing belt, it is imperative to install your marks on the belt and stars for control..
Important: With the timing belt removed, you cannot turn any of the engine shafts in order to avoid label failure and damage to the engine itself. After installing a new belt, be sure to manually crank the engine several times and make sure that nothing interferes with its rotation. If the belt was not installed according to the piston marks, rest against the valve.
What you need to have to replace the timing kit
- Jack + pit or lift
- Engine support
- Wheel wrench
- 10mm, 13mm, 16mm and 18mm wrenches
- Cue ball torx T20
- Cue ball 6mm
- Screwdriver "-"
- Piston remover, article AB030028
- Proofreader stationery
- Replaceable parts
On this car, we will replace the timing belt and roller.
Diesel engine with a volume of 1.5 is installed on many cars of the Renault, Nissan and others.
First, unscrew the bolts securing the engine mount to the loggeron with a 16mm wrench. This is necessary in order not to damage the cushion when jacking up the engine..
You can also immediately snap off the fuel hoses from the cushion bracket and take them to the side.
You can lift the car under the threshold, but only in specially indicated places.
Remove the engine protection by unscrewing six bolts with a 10mm wrench.
Use a wheel wrench or 17mm head to unscrew and remove the front right wheel.
Behind the wheel, remove the wheel arch liner by pulling out the caps with a special puller or screwdriver and unscrewing one bolt with a torx T20 bit.
Pull out two more pistons from above.
And one more behind the shock absorber.
Remove the fender liner by snapping the latch on the bumper.
There is now access to the belt drive. Cracks on the belt are visible to the naked eye.
To loosen the belt tension, you can pull the belt itself down.
And with a 16mm wrench, hold the tension roller and remove the belt.
After removing the belt, you need to check the condition of the tension roller, generator and air conditioning compressor. Check for torsional hum and axial play.
We jack up the engine or substitute a support. The engine should be positioned so that it is possible to raise and lower it.
Having set the motor, unscrew the pillow bracket from the engine.
In order to pull out the pillow, you need to lower the engine a little.
Next, snapping off the latch on the sides, remove the timing belt protective cover.
This is what the top of the casing looks like..
Now you need to unscrew the four bolts securing the bracket to the engine with a 10mm wrench. In order to more easily crawl to all the bolts, it is necessary to raise the engine again.
Also on the side of the wheel in the body there is a hole through which you can crawl to one bolt of the bracket.
Now we turn the engine until the hole on the cylinder head behind the camshaft star coincides with a special groove on the star itself.
In this position, our pistons of the first and fourth cylinders are at TDC.
Next, with the corrector, we draw our marks on the belt and the camshaft star on the tooth after the factory mark.
Also, on the star of the injection pump, we find the factory mark and on the next tooth we draw our mark.
We unscrew the crankshaft pulley with an 18mm wrench, stopping the engine in advance or, as in our case, with a pneumatic wrench. To stop the engine, you can turn on the 5th gear of the gearbox and press the brake.
Now we find the factory mark on the crankshaft star and put our own.
On this car, the engine is very close to the spar and the unscrewed bracket can be removed only after removing the timing belt.
Release the belt roller tension with a 13mm key through the hole in the body.
Now it is possible to move the bracket to the side.
Remove the lower casing by snapping off two latches on the sides.
And pulling it out of the groove.
Pulling out the old belt.
We inspect the pump for leaks and backlash. We inspect the crankshaft and camshaft oil seals for leaks.
Remove the tension roller.
Compare the old belt and roller with new ones.
We see that the new belt has factory setting marks.
We transfer our marks to the tooth after the factory.
To do this, it is necessary to fold the belts as in the photo and counting the teeth, transfer all the marks.
There are two marks on the new belt in the area of the crankshaft. This timing kit is suitable for different engines, so we just don’t need one of the tags.
We fasten a new tension roller.
By installing it in a special groove.
We put in the pillow bracket by immediately installing the mounting bolts in it, since then not all the bolts can be put.
We put on the belt so that our and factory marks match.
And on the crankshaft.
Pull the belt through the hole in the body and clamp the roller. The checkbox should fall into place.
Installing back the lower timing case.
We fasten the bracket and assemble everything in the reverse order.
To install the cushion, the engine must be lowered again.
We will install such a drive belt.
Install a new belt by scrolling the roller clockwise.
We put in place the liner.
If, when removing the wheel arch liner, some of the caps were broken off, then you can restore them using a self-tapping screw.
Clamp the wheel. We fix the cap with plastic clamps.
The work is over, you can safely ride the next 50,000 km without looking here.