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Subaru Forester (1998)

Subaru Forester (1998) 1

Subaru Forester (1998)

Without keyword

Subaru – Forester: stove

The stove and air conditioner on “- Forester” of 1998 release are with the so-called “electronic control”, that is, all switching is performed by pressing the keys and at the same time, all the necessary indicators are displayed – temperature “overboard”, airflow direction, condition of the air conditioner ( on / off) and so on.

In this article we will analyze some of the most common failures:

    On the display, the air temperature “overboard” is displayed incorrectly (on the street +5 degrees, and on the display +20)

  • There is no switching of air “to the glass”, “to the feet”, “to the face”.
  • The first malfunction occurs most often after someone “climbs” behind the instrument panel, for example, an alarm installation specialist – for some reason they all like to install the main alarm unit precisely behind the instrument panel. And during their “climbing” they can accidentally touch the corrugated vinyl tube (usually black) that runs in that area. As a result of this, either a tube rupture is formed or, if it was accidentally pulled and pulled strongly, the tube flies off the “nipple”, which is located on the main body of the stove control unit.

    To eliminate such a malfunction, it is necessary to remove all the false panels that cover the stove panel and the radio receiver, then first remove and pull out the radio receiver itself and only after that the stove control unit will “succumb” to us. Behind him, we will see the “nipple” and the tube itself. If it does not fly off the “nipple” on the stove control unit, then you need to “walk” through the entire tube and find a gap.

    The second malfunction is more complicated and to eliminate it you need to have some “electronic skills”.

    But for starters, in order not to “fence the garden” and not to do unnecessary work, you need to decide: is it the statement that the dampers themselves do not work and the reason is in “clean electronics”?

    To do this, turn on the ignition and press the MODE key on the control panel of the stove. Other keys should not be pressed, because when you turn on the fan, even in the first position, we risk not even hearing the air dampers in the stove itself – they work so quietly.

    The display will show the position of the dampers. Further, by clicking on the same key we will carefully listen: is there a step-by-step motor in the stove itself?

    If after each keystroke we hear a short “buzz” in the stove (provided that before that we also pressed this key, but the air direction did not change), then the reason is not in the electronics, but in the mechanics. On one of these machines it turned out that the movement of the dampers was hindered by … a shard of glass that jammed the “mechanics”. But the splinter got there simply: during the transportation of the car on the deck of the ship, a wave hit the windshield and knocked it out.

    It is necessary to remove the stove and watch the “mechanics”, determine what interferes with the movement of the dampers. If we didn’t hear anything, then we move on to “deep electronics”.

    To do this, pull out and completely disassemble the control unit of the stove. You have to tinker a bit, but nothing.

    Below is an approximate diagram of the control panel for the stove and air conditioning:

    Further, guided by the above scheme, it is quite easy to check the operability of both microcircuits and transistors and, most likely, to identify a malfunction. From some practice it can be said that most often the microcircuit “” fails, to which special attention should be paid when checking.

    If the machine is a “drowned man” (they quite often began to arrive recently from Japan in connection with the typhoons that have passed there), then first of all it is necessary to pay attention to the “contact oxidation” and the state of the solder points on the boards.


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