Effective car acceleration - Car driving 2

Effective car acceleration – Car driving

Effective car acceleration

The main mistake is the slipping of the drive wheels (when the car is stationary, and the drive wheels rotate). If on any surface, whether asphalt or ice, you do not allow it, then consider that you already own a piece of skill. How to learn this?

On a flat road, preferably on an unloaded car (with a manual transmission), at idle, turn 1st gear and start the first movement without pressing the accelerator pedal at all, i.e. working only with the clutch pedal. When the car starts moving (idle speed), stop it by “pressing the clutch” and repeat again. It turned out? Try the same thing, but using 2nd gear. Do not overdo it! Two or three times happened – enough!

At such a start of movement, your drive wheels will not slip – there will not be enough engine power and, in extreme cases, it will simply stall. In ordinary life, we, of course, will not start the movement like this, except in rare cases when it’s very slippery. The conclusion is simple: the lower the engine speed at the start of movement, the greater the likelihood that there will be no slipping! In order to make the car easier to start moving, the front wheels must be set strictly straight!

But how can one accelerate quickly on slippery ice? More about this below.

The beginning of the movement or “acceleration”, to put it simply. Many will even name the necessary terms — weather tires, a powerful motor — and they will be right, but only partially. What else is important to know, and most importantly – to be able to?

We dare to remind you that the main mistake is, firstly, the driving wheels of your car skidding in place. The car is not located in a straight line with respect to the direction of movement, and the front wheels are turned (do not stand strictly straight). This is the second. How to learn to feel the beginning of slipping? A simple exercise, with the beginning of movement without “gas”, we think, did not cause great difficulties.

Lesson two. Subtle sensations

The car stands with the engine running on level ground. Engage I gear and slowly release the clutch pedal. There will come a moment when your car, before you start moving, as if “straining”. Pay attention to this, try to feel it.!

After the moment of “tension”, if you release the clutch a little more, movement will begin. But, as soon as the car makes a rush to move, and the wheels turn slightly, press the clutch exactly enough so that it stops and the “tension” is eliminated. Performing this non-stop, you will swing the car on the spot. The smaller the amplitude, the better! Ideally – the tires are in place, and the rim barely noticeably turns back and forth.

Exercise can be performed anytime, anywhere, it is absolutely safe. Now you know exactly how your grip works and in what range. By the way, all of the above can be done on a car with automatic transmission.

The next stage of training and sensations. The car stands still, you increase the engine speed to any value (for example, 2.500 rpm.) And hold it for a long time. It is better to do this by looking at the instrument – the tachometer, if there is, and if not, then by ear. Your task, by turning on I gear, start moving while holding the engine speed that you set before. From the beginning to the end of the exercise, the turns are the same – they do not fall and do not rise. Doing it all the better on the site, where there is no movement of cars and pedestrians. At the first attempts, it is better to look at the tachometer, again, if there is one. You need to start with a slight increase in speed and, as you complete it, complicate the task by increasing them. It is important to pay attention to the speed of releasing the clutch pedal, namely: try to do this as soon as possible.

If everything is done absolutely correctly, then the car accelerates quickly and without slipping, and the higher the engine speed that you hold, the faster. There comes a time when the execution becomes impossible due to the occurrence of slippage. Most often, this means that for a given pavement you have crossed the line and the engine speed is too high. The conclusion is simple: the higher the coefficient of adhesion, the greater the speed for quick acceleration we can afford! Performing acceleration in this way, you begin to catch the beginning of slipping, if you make a mistake – this is the uniqueness of the exercise.

Acceleration tricks and the start of movement

1. If you need to win the “start”, then the maximum form of your readiness for this is when the engine speed is chosen correctly, the front wheels are straight, and the car swings slightly in place (see Exercise above);

2. At the beginning of the movement, the center of gravity of the vehicle shifts back, loading the rear wheels. If a car with rear-wheel drive, this increases the acceleration efficiency, and if with a front-wheel drive it lowers (front, driving wheels are loaded). Using the rocking technique in place, i.e. moving the car back and forth, you and the center of gravity move back and forth. Using its movement (depending on the type of drive of your car), you can increase the efficiency of the starting moment, and even on very slippery roads start moving without slipping.

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Jerks during acceleration and movement of the car, VKontakte 4

Jerks during acceleration and movement of the car, VKontakte

Jerks during acceleration and movement of the car, VKontakte

Jerks during acceleration and movement of the car.

The jerk is a short-term change in the speed of the crankshaft, regardless of the gas pedal. In everyday operation, even a series of jerks can be found, but the limiting case of a jerk is a failure, which provides a noticeable delay in the reaction of the engine.

Many car owners during the operation of their “iron horse” are faced with the problem of jerking and the so-called “twitching” both during acceleration and during the direct movement of the car. Few people like such “failures”, because because of all this, the driver presses the accelerator pedal harder and, as a result, fuel consumption increases. But this is not the only problem, and definitely say that the “hurts” in the car also does not work. Consider some of the options.

High voltage wires and ignition coil

The first step is to check the wires and the coil. It so happens that the wires “break through”, and the engine starts to troit. This happens from old age, poor contact with candles – there can be quite a few reasons. The best way out of the situation is to replace the wires with new ones, since they are now not expensive at all..

The same situation as with the wires. Candles today are becoming the same consumable as, for example, pads. Strong soot, poor contact with wires, the mixture consists only of air – all this can cause “jerking” and jerking of the car.

On old carburetor cars, you need to independently set the so-called ignition timing. When the car twitches during acceleration, this may indicate early ignition. You can check the ignition timing in the following way: in 4th gear at a speed of 50 km / h, depress the gas pedal sharply. With an ideal moment there will be a detonation of about 1-2 seconds. Owners of new cars do not encounter such a problem, everything is regulated automatically there.

Often car owners, faced with the problem of jerks during acceleration, immediately sin on something serious, but forget about the little things. Do not forget to check the fuel and air filters from time to time. Over time, they become clogged and bring you deterioration in dynamics and increased fuel consumption. They are also consumables, are inexpensive, and replacing them will take quite a bit of your time..

If none of the above helps, then the problem can only be in the engine. For example, owners of cars with injection engines often face clogged fuel injectors. One way or another, in this situation, you will have to go to the diagnostics service. In addition, diagnostics can show the composition of the mixture. The jerking and twitching of the car during acceleration may indicate that the mixture is too lean. And this, in turn, indicates a malfunction of the sensors.

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Do I need to turn off the air conditioner during acceleration

Do I need to turn off the air conditioner during acceleration

During demonstration tests for customers, we often see how experienced car enthusiasts turn off the air conditioner during a test of car dynamics. But how much does it actually affect acceleration?

The first question that often interests you is how much air conditioning eats fuel. If you delve into the on-board computer, you can display a graph of fuel consumption by auxiliary units and see that the share of the air conditioner accounts for about 0.5-0.7 liters. This is not per minute, but per hour. Hello to all taxi drivers who continue to use the “window” version of airflow for their passengers on hot days.

We are going further. Car enthusiasts who turn off the air conditioner to accelerate are right and wrong. In most cases, this is due to stories from motorists who have traveled almost all their lives in cars with 1.6-liter aspirated. And they are right. On small engines, the “climate” can eat up 10-15% of the power – depending on driving conditions.

Do I need to turn off the air conditioner during acceleration 10

If you turn the motor to 3500-5000 rpm, where the peaks of torque and power are usually located, the effect of the air conditioner will be minimal. But on the bottoms, in the range of 1000-2000 rpm, the power unit is experiencing a shortage of traction. And most often this happens during uniform movement – when driving long distances. The highest gear is engaged and the tachometer needle drops to 1,500-2,000 thousand revolutions. The motor consumes little and produces approximately 55-70% of power. And if we take away another 10% from them for air conditioning, then there will be practically no resource for sudden sharp acceleration.

Aware of this problem, a number of premium manufacturers – for example, BMW or Audi, equip air conditioning systems with an automatic shutdown system during acceleration. The system allows you to save fuel and returns the “calculated” dynamics to the car. On budget sedans and hatchbacks there is no such automation – but the air conditioner can be turned off manually.

And, remember, if under the hood is, for example, a 350-horsepower V-shaped unit, that is, multi-liter, then the air conditioner practically does not affect acceleration.

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How to deal with spontaneous car acceleration 15

How to deal with spontaneous car acceleration

How to deal with spontaneous car acceleration

How to deal with spontaneous car acceleration

Many motorists must have come across such an unpleasant and dangerous phenomenon as spontaneous acceleration of a car. That is, such an acceleration that was not caused by the actions of the driver, but occurred for inexplicable reasons, at the whim of the machine itself.

In this article, we will reveal the secrets of these processes and explain how to be when you are in a difficult situation behind the wheel of a “furious” vehicle..

What threatens spontaneous acceleration

Spontaneous acceleration of the car occurs suddenly for the driver and often leads to sad consequences, including fatal ones. Caught in a difficult situation, motorists simply do not understand how to slow down the engine and stop the rebellious car, especially when it comes to a car with automatic transmission. In the case of powerful and heavy vehicles, the situation is aggravated by the fact that their brakes are not able to effectively upset the engine that has reached the maximum torque – the car will continue to drive, even if you apply hundreds of kilograms of force to the brake pedal.

The uncontrolled increase in engine speed occurs on many makes and models of vehicles and is caused by a whole “bunch” of breakdowns or design flaws. Therefore, this malfunction is carefully hushed up by the automakers themselves. It is understandable: after an accident due to uncontrolled acceleration, it will not be easy for the driver and experts to prove that the accident occurred due to the fault of technology – in many cases the malfunction is programmatic or permanent and does not leave any evidence. However, there are exceptions – as in the situation with millions of reviews of Toyota and Lexus cars due to the wrong floor mat. Recall that this ridiculous flaw led to the death of at least five drivers and injuries of at least 14 more people (according to official figures, which are likely to be very underestimated).

Process physics

We will not bother you with the technical subtleties and try to explain “on the fingers” the physics of the processes that lead to automobile “rabies”.

As you know, in order to unleash the gasoline engine of a car and accelerate, you need to increase the flow of air-fuel mixture, that is, press on the gas pedal, thereby opening the throttle to allow large volumes of air to pass into the intake manifold. Opening the shutter is carried out mechanically (with a cable) or electronically (in the presence of an electronic gas pedal).

The damper of a modern injection vehicle is a unit located between the intake manifold and the air filter. According to the principle of operation, this is the most ordinary air valve that regulates the pressure in the system – the smaller the opening angle of the damper, the lower the volume of incoming air and the speed of the crankshaft of the motor. At idle, the main damper closes completely, and air enters the manifold along a bypass path – through an electronically controlled idle valve with a small bore. His work is monitored by the “brains” of the car, which automatically control the opening of the channel and maintain the engine speed in the optimal range. The throttle position, in turn, is monitored by a special sensor, the readings from which are read by the control unit and affect mixture formation and ignition.

It is with the throttle assembly and its control system that many causes of spontaneous acceleration of cars are associated. However, there are other sources of problems, which we will also discuss below..

Reasons for spontaneous overclocking

The most common culprits of problems with spontaneous acceleration are banal, but very insidious breakdowns, which are sometimes quite difficult to identify and localize:

– gas cable seizing

In cars with a mechanical throttle pedal, the gas cable during operation breaks open and begins to seize inside the “shirt”. This causes the damper to freeze in the ajar position – the gas pedal when released simply does not return to its original state, which leads to increased engine speeds.

Similar effects are caused by the entry of grains of sand and other debris into the throttle assembly – even in the case of a slight leakage in the damper, the engine speed increases significantly. Usually this kind of trouble comes after a careless replacement of the air filter.

– breakdown of the electronic gas pedal

In the case of the electronic pedal, its sensor often breaks down: the potentiometer tracks and contact brushes are erased over time, and the car’s brains begin to receive incorrect information about the position of the gas pedal. This, in turn, leads to uncontrolled opening of the throttle and spontaneous acceleration of the car.

– pollution of the idle speed controller

The idle speed controller, which is a stepper motor, is heavily contaminated during operation and ceases to correctly perform its functions, which sometimes leads to its excessive opening and ingress of “excess” air into the collector. The natural consequence is an uncontrolled increase in crankshaft speed..

– Damage to the throttle position sensor

The failure of another sensor that monitors the position of the throttle valve leads to exactly the same consequences. This potentiometer can send so distorted data to the “brain” that the car simply refuses to start or will incorrectly control the idle valve.

The next nuisance leading to spontaneous acceleration can be suction into the collector of air unaccounted for by the system – through torn or cracked pipes, cracks and dried gaskets.

Much less often, the electronic engine control unit itself becomes the cause of the trouble. Like any other electrical device, over the years it can start to “fail” for quite objective reasons – no printed circuit boards and microcircuits are able to withstand extreme working conditions in the engine compartment of a car.

– violation of the crankcase ventilation system

Similar problems sometimes occur due to a breakdown of the crankcase ventilation system, which leads to oil mist entering the manifold and additional enrichment of the mixture, as well as rapid contamination of the damper itself. Do not forget about air leakage into the collector through leaking hoses of the ventilation system or through the vacuum brake booster.

Owners of diesel cars are faced with the most dangerous kind of spontaneous unwinding of the engine – the so-called “spacing”, leading to the complete destruction of the engine. As a rule, it is caused by excessive wear of the piston-cylinder group. The source of the problem is oil that enters in large volumes into the combustion chamber through oil scraper rings, a turbine, or a crankcase ventilation pipe. Even with the gas pedal fully released, the “frantic” diesel continues to work on “alternative” fuel – moreover, it is very cheerful. It is simply impossible to drown it out in traditional ways.

How to deal with uncontrolled overclocking

All drivers without exception, we recommend that you prepare in advance for the situation of uncontrolled acceleration. This will allow you to instantly make the right decision and cope with uncontrolled equipment without consequences for yourself and others.

On the “mechanics”

If the car you are driving is equipped with a mechanical transmission, you are very lucky: to stop uncontrolled acceleration, you just need to disengage the transmission by depressing the clutch pedal and using the standard brake system. In the case of jamming the gas pedal, the problem with speed is often solved by repeatedly pressing it. The “glitches” of the sensors and the idle speed regulator can be overcome by sequential switching the box down and engine braking, or by jamming and restarting the motor (of course, not on the go).

On the “machine”

It’s worse for motorists with automated transmission technology – there is no clutch pedal, and it’s a little harder to interrupt the transmission of torque.

First of all, you need to try to move the gear selector to position N, while simultaneously depressing the brake pedal, then completely stop and turn off the engine.

If you cannot switch the box to neutral, you must turn off the engine with the button or turn the key in the ignition switch to the ACC position, not forgetting that this will reduce the effectiveness of the power steering and brakes. It is strictly forbidden to remove the key from the lock – the “steering wheel” can be blocked! If the car is equipped with a Start / Stop button, keep it pressed for at least three seconds.

Well, in the case of spontaneous promotion of the diesel engine, you need to not only stop the rebelled car as soon as possible, but also open its hood and block the air filter pipe in any available (but safe) way – for example, by plugging a hole with a rag twisted in several layers. If this does not stop him, help the engine stall by turning high gear and holding the car with brakes.

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