D-4 – adjustable damper
Given that there is little information on adjusting the electronic shutter of 3 S – FSE engines, and also, based on material kindly provided by Anton (12 volt ), and Vladimir Petrovich, based on the practice of adjustment, we can offer (in my opinion) another option .
In both articles, the adjustment options for one motor model are given, but, as you know, it was produced in several modifications depending on the model of the car and the year of manufacture. In other words, for example, the parameters of the first article (given the high accuracy of the manufacture of nodes) are more suitable for real life. “Count the threads” is not necessary – just measure the output of the screws above the plane with the ram. This is accurate and fast, and most importantly – suitable for repair. In a real repair, time also matters.
In the second article, more painstaking adjustment for the scanner and voltmeter with folk values like 0.669mV and the like, which can be set only with “right hands” by ear and by nose. Moreover, the result was achieved – but at what cost – the whole day. Repeating it is much more difficult than Anton’s practical option..
What to do if the scent fails, and the hands can’t get into 0.669 mV, and strives for 0.7 V, but do not twist. An attempt to study how it all revolves there – it revolves, as well as magic numbers with three signs that did not allow to sleep, prompted to thought – it could not be !
Well, it cannot be that this automatic control system (ATS) does not work (albeit conditionally) at a voltage of 0.7 volts .
As far as is known, in any feedback system there is a stability coefficient, in other words, a corridor (hysteresis loop) in which the parameters are considered unchanged. The system does not randomly transition from one state to another – otherwise there will be a resonance (breaking the control loop) or going to extreme values .
A simple example is a relay. The operating voltage is higher than the release voltage. Thus, a hysteresis loop is formed in the zone of which nothing happens. Therefore, the system is stable. Otherwise, we would get a constant “bounce of contacts.” This is also implemented in electronics, for example, logic chips – this is the signal level. Gradually moving to the car, we see this on the example of TOYOTA in the signal on the automatic transmission. If the TPS is an analog device, linear and continuous, then the signal for the automatic transmission should not have this form, otherwise the switching thresholds would be without a hysteresis loop, and it would be possible at a certain speed to achieve constant gear shifting from one to another and back to infinity. By the shape of this signal you can see that the voltage changes in increments, or steps. The voltage of one step is the hysteresis loop for each level. In the zone of this step, it is considered unchanged..
Example of a TT signal (automatic transmission) of a digitized ECU with TPS:
And if we draw the lines connecting the steps to the top and bottom, we get a corridor. This is the principle of operation of all digital-to-analog converters (judging by the number of quantization levels), it costs a 4-bit ADC with combinations
from 0000, 0001, 0010 ……. to 1111 bus states. It is possible that the 3 S – FSE damper has an ADC with higher bit depth (accuracy), but in any case the principle is the same.
Based on this, we can conclude (and it is confirmed) – there is a “corridor” in the TPS adjustment, the motor will work not only with a VTA of 0.669 V but also at 0.7 V. To be precise, the corridor is much larger.
The second reason for the search is what to do if there is no scanner, or it does not “read” the date, then such a setting is not applicable at all .
Third – what to do if different models and parameters of one do not fit the other ?
To begin with, we restrict the range of searches and input variables in the form of unknown quantities.
Namely – let’s call the nodes a little differently .
Due to the fact that the APPS (pedal position sensor) cannot be adjusted, it is immediately excluded for clarity. Whatever model comes in – in any case, it is as it is, twist – there is nothing to twist there, except for one thing: check the smoothness of the voltage rise for breaks in current-carrying tracks with a pointer voltmeter.
The throttle retaining screw has an absolutely similar purpose to any other thrust screw of any other damper, including the carburetor. Its sole purpose is to limit the shutter stroke to full closure without wedging in the housing.
As we see from the design – with the shutter closed until it stops (we press it with your finger), the shutter should not wedge in the throttle body, and when fully closed, rest against this screw against the limiter.
– close the shutter manually pushing it with your finger having previously unscrewed the stop screw
– We begin to screw in this screw before the flap opens.
– Check for wedging.
– Tighten the locknut. All – you can paint the thread with a marker.
This can be done by car, without removing the throttle body, if the damper is hot (the motor was working), it is better to push it with a wooden pencil so as not to burn your hands and damage the aluminum body.
TPS – the main difficulties with it. To begin with, we fix the TPS strictly in the middle of its adjustment grooves. We connect the connector to it and watch the voltage .
At pin 1 (top) – 5 volts. 12 volts cannot be there .
The second from above (VTA) – we will be limited to one channel (they are synchronous)
We look at the VTA voltage with a simple multimeter at the limit of 20 volts (two decimal places are better perceived than three 🙂
The voltage can be different, but in any case – it is close to the reference – since on a working car all adjustments are somewhere in the middle. For accuracy and repeatability of the result (required), the VTA voltage should be checked with the shutter pressed while the drive motor is off.
– Connect the APPS and TPS connectors, the connector for TPS on the drive motor is disconnected.
– press the shutter with your finger and watch the VTA voltage
TPS is also checked for track breaks like APPS before
Let’s say you saw 0.63 V – set 0.6 to TPS
Some flap showed 0.52 – put 0.5, and the third 0.46 V, put 0.45 – the closest to rounding. It will work at 0.46, and even at 0.4 V, but at 0.35 there will be an error .
Therefore, it is important that you first fine-tune the throttle to completely close the shutter, and then set the TPS to the middle position – this way you will find almost exactly and immediately the middle of the ATS hysteresis loop. Fix TPS .
I recommend pressing the damper and taking VTA readings for absolute stability of the results (and their predictability), otherwise the next participant (below) will interfere in the measurement process – these are two unknown quantities, which is completely confusing and makes some owners twist everything, including all screws and TPS at once, and this leads only to negative results, although “a negative result is also a result”?
One screw left
You can call it in another way – for example, the throttle does not stop screw (it does not rest against it in any way) .
And, for example, the screw of the initial opening angle of the throttle. This screw presses on the spring assembly, which forms the initial opening angle of the shutter. It is not affiliated with APPS. The initial opening angle is when the shutter is ajar with the ignition off or the connector removed from the drive motor. This angle is maintained when the engine is idling. Through five-minute experiments, it was found that the accuracy of setting this angle also affects the level of warm-up revolutions. We control this parameter all the same VTA with the servomotor off and without pressing the shutter to the closed state.
– APPS and TPS are connected, servo is disconnected
– connect the same voltmeter to the same VTA connector (or is it already connected)
– we twist or unscrew the screw of the initial angle of the shutter to obtain the difference VTA – C (shutter is free) and VTA – Z (shutter is pressed – closed) 0.1 – 0.15 volts .
Example – VTA – C 0.5 V, VTA – C 0.65 V, or VTA – C 0.6 V, VTA – C 0.75 V, etc.
How accurately did you “fall” into the range – make sure after warming up the motor and setting 650 rpm for VTA voltage – it should be close to VTA – C
Zero the ECU and start the engine, after warming up, see the revolutions .
Suppose you set the difference VTA – C VTA -3 smaller, everything will work, and the transition to compression on lean will be, but the engine will start only on hot. In the morning you have to press the gas pedal to start .
How to check the accuracy of your adjustments if there is no scanner – again, a voltmeter with two decimal places can solve this problem.
Warm up the motor and compare on XX the VTA readings with the engine running and muffled, with the drive motor turned off. When finely tuned, they are near or coincide with a difference of 0.02 V
Stop the engine and remove the connector from the temperature sensor on the ECU, connect a 2.2 kΩ resistor to the connector (this is about 20 degrees). Start – check the revs “warm-up” 1500 – 1700 rpm (on a hot engine). If this is a lot for you, then by reducing the difference and zeroing the ECU you can slightly reduce the warm-up speed – like the “WINTER – SUMMER” mode on carburetors with thermal heating in the start-up system .
But this is an experiment in which you can “achieve” the check engine
It is possible to determine whether the motor switches to COMPLEAN by the signal OX 1 / VF 1 in the diagnostic connector under the hood, using a vacuum gauge or a scanner (if any)
- CORONA PREMIO 96 g (apparently from the first) with such a pump, the diagnostic connector is only under the hood, according to the self-diagnosis there are no errors (E 1-TE 1) next to it lies the “diagnostic scanner” in the form of a jumper wire.
It does not start in any way, except for supplying fuel to the inlet from the syringe. All screws were unscrewed on the electronic shutter (as on the motor), a new high-pressure fuel pump, in the engine compartment, it seems, “there was a thermonuclear explosion.” J
According to the owner – does not start after replacing the injection pump.
We look at the signals on the nozzles (100 volt amplifier under the driver’s seat)
There are pulses with an amplitude of 100 volts, but the duration when scrolling with a starter leaves much to be desired (less than 2 ms) This is clearly not enough to start the motor. All the covers were removed a long time ago and by the way, originally – for those who change the timing belts on such engines and are tired of the distant bolt securing the plastic cover casing, as well as the fact that you can’t remove it, without removing the engine mount cushion along with the bracket, it wasn’t there .
Craftsmen finalized this site !! – see photo:
Now, to check the timing marks, you need to do just three simple steps J
But there is no need to do such a “tuning” of the air filter, but as an option for “crazy racers” – how to make a “nulevik” from the stock filter ??
The answer is simple – take the drain, pour gasoline on it and set it on fire until the holes appear with them – “nulevik is ready” .
The main thing is to put out in time, otherwise you can spoil L
We get to the ECU, it is quite conveniently located and watch the signal at the output of the rail fuel pressure sensor. (High pressure)
This is a pink wire. The voltage on it is 5 volts when turned on, five volts when scrolling – in general it is faulty.
In the literature of the Publishing House “Legion – Avtodata” little is written about how to check it.
Anyway, even in the “manuals” this question somehow “quietly bypasses”.
It is written that when voltage is applied to the sensor, there should be zero voltage at its output. But this is not a verification method for the schemes implemented in it. .
Obviously, the sensor itself contains a measuring element that converts pressure to voltage, as well as a terminal stage made according to the OK scheme (open collector – or a circuit with a common emitter)
5 volt power supply, signal ground and output – all in a three-pin sensor connector.
Naturally, it will not be possible to simply check the sensor with removal – firstly, it is necessary to generate pressure, secondly, to supply power, and thirdly, to form a load for the circuit with OK (this cascade itself does not generate voltage)
Then the circuit of the input amplifier ECU should look like where R 1 is the load for the inverting amplifier VT 1 and also the voltage divider for OY 1
Then, when power is supplied through the resistor R 1, a current begins to flow through the circuit, the power supply 5 V
(The internal voltage of the ECU, R 1, R 2 is common.)
Thus, a bias is formed at the input of the amplifier OY 1 5 volts (since the input impedance of the amplifier is very large, the flowing current OY can be neglected). In normal operation, this bias is applied to the collector of the transistor of the output stage of the sensor VT 1, and the transistor, opening, shunts the resistor R 2, thereby lowering the voltage at the input OY. A maximum voltage of 5 V at input OY 1 corresponds to a maximum pressure in the fuel line. At the same time, the ECU closes the nozzles so much that starting the motor is not possible (focusing on pressure), but the real pressure is much lower. Considering that the pressure sensor is not something to remove, it is not easy to see, for testing we cut the wire (signal from the sensor) and ground it through the tuning resistor, turn on the ignition and set the resistor to 2.2-2.5 volts – start the engine – it starts and works at warm revs.
For the final test, you will have to remove the connector from the sensor and check the voltage on it, and especially the signal wire. If everything is normal – change the sensor. In this case, the problem was in the sealing gum of the connector – it did not allow the connector to snap on the sensor (not to exert much effort due to limited space)
Then adjust the ETCS
Parameters VTA (З) 0.5 V VTA (C) 0.65 V, after warming up in STICH, the damper “tends” to 0.63 V, switches to ULCM .
On such a model with DLC 1 under the hood, it is easy to check the operation in Ultra Lean Combust Mode with a voltmeter on track VF 1
But at CORONA PREMIO 2000 with a pump of this kind:
After all the ETCS settings, I had to additionally adapt the damper using the jumper (or the scanner in e te 1 mode)
The obtained modes at VTA (З) 0.6 V VTA (C) 0.65 V To this model (DLC 3) it was possible to connect a scanner and check the THPS readings – 15.8% (according to the manual, it should be in the range 14.6 – 16.0%)
The error occurred after turning on the ignition or the internal combustion engine after 10-15 seconds.
We erase the error on a running motor, turn off the engine.
We turn on the ignition and while the flap is working, we press the gas pedal all the way .
Close the contacts in the DLC diagnostic connector 3 – check blinks, wait a couple of seconds .
Release the gas pedal – smoothly.
Turn off the ignition
Pull out the jumper
We are waiting for 10 seconds, start, watch the operation of the engine on the scanner
If the adjustment is exactly done, then the opening angle of the shutter (according to the scanner) in STICH is about 15 degrees, and in terms of voltage VTA is close to the set VTA (C)
Checking the start for “cold” by connecting a 2.2 kOhm resistor to the connector of the ECU temperature sensor does not interfere, since it will take a long time to wait for the engine to cool naturally in summer, and you need to make sure that ETCS works.
Diagnost Arid Omarovich (SKYLINE77 in our Forum)
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