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Toyota D-4

Toyota D-4 1
1

Without keyword

This material was proposed by me as one of the options for the restoration of nozzles. Despite the fact that the engines 1AZ, 1JZ, D4 series from Toyota are already quite widespread, with the enviable constancy, the fuel nozzles used on these engines are brought to me for restoration. The most common malfunctions are caused by a broken nozzle connector. There are several reasons for this:

1. Unskilled work as a locksmith

2. Over time, “embrittlement” of the plastic from which the coil and connector is made.

4. Mechanical damage due to shock, accident, etc…

Most common mistake when removing such nozzles, this is an attempt to turn the nozzle by the connector. I would like to immediately warn everyone who is faced with the removal of these nozzles: in no case do this. Considering that the plastic from which the nozzle parts are made undergoes constant changes in temperature, a deterioration of its mechanical properties naturally occurs.

When you try to crank the connector, it just breaks. To remove such injectors, I use a sharpened 18mm key. I turn and further “stir up” the metal case in the area of ​​the clamping fork (while soaking its WD40).

The reason for this reluctance to be removed is usually the soot burned inside the cylinder to the nozzle atomizer body.

So, we have a damaged nozzle from the 1JZ-FSE engine. The photo shows that the breakage of the conclusions of the coil winding is made “under the root” (Fig. 1).

Toyota D-4 2

 

Toyota D-4 3

 

Toyota D-4 4

 

1. On the opposite side of the connector, the coil housing has a protrusion (Fig. 2), not allowing the winding to turn. In our case, we need to find the torn leads of the coil. They are usually located inside the metal body of the nozzle, which covers the winding itself. To get to them, we need to turn the winding first one way, then the other. To do this, remove the casting (Fig. 3) Now we slightly cut the plastic from the side of the connector to ensure free rotation of the winding by the angle necessary in the future to extract the dangling ends of the winding.

2. Now prepare the torn connector. On the emery wheel, we slowly grind one side (as shown on Fig. 4) until the contact group of the connector (Fig.5) We need them to solder to them the extended terminals of the coil. On the inside, make two holes with a diameter of 0.8-0.9 mm for the findings (Fig. 6) Now the connector is ready for assembly.

Toyota D-4 5

 

Toyota D-4 6

 

Toyota D-4 7

 

3. The most complex and requiring accuracy and caution is the work of releasing the coil leads from plastic. We turn the winding at an angle necessary for cleaning and tinning the first output (Fig. 7) Layer by layer I cut the plastic until the free tip of the coil appears. I am doing this work with a clerical knife (Fig. 8) I carefully clean the varnish insulation from the wire with the same knife. This operation must be performed with extreme caution. If you pull the wire lead out too much or bend it, it may break. Cleaned Puddle With Soldering Iron. I do not recommend using aggressive solutions for this. It is most optimal to use pine rosin. It is easily cleaned and these wires are perfectly soldered with it. The plus is that until you clean the rosin, it perfectly keeps the tinned output fixed. Take a piece of wire from the wiring of the car. We will need copper veins from it in diameter approximately the same as the diameter of the coil wire. Solder a section of a vein of a stranded wire (Fig. 9) We clean the place of soldering from rosin (I use carb sprays for this, they wash well and without mechanical impact). Now we cover the place of soldering with a thin layer of zaponlak. This is necessary to seal the solder.

On the soldered output we put on a cambric made of insulation of wires (Fig. 10) It is necessary to select it of such a diameter that it fits freely between the metal case and the winding when it is rotated. This must be done in order to ensure reliable isolation of the output from the nozzle body. By analogues, we also draw the second conclusion. We center the coil winding in the wake of the previously removed stop casting. Here’s what we ended up with (Fig. eleven) Be sure to check the resistance of the winding. It is possible that when stripping the terminals, an interturn circuit may appear. It must be removed before final assembly..

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